How To Clean Corners Using Steel Wool

Writer   Comment pgf Senior Member
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Posted 1564606725	Reply with quote  #one
When Steve was refinishing his portable 1857 Grover and Baker, he mentioned that he was using steel wool and White potato's Oil Soap on the wood.  His results were spectacular.  The old finish went right away, and the wood beneath it glowed.  I retrieve Steve said he used Howard's Feed 'due north Wax for the final finish.   https://www.victoriansweatshop.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1307977403&postcount=53&forum=501752 So when I got my 1873-ish Home, and the treadle height and bonnet needed a complete redo, I decided to requite the technique a attempt.  It worked well for me, too. (I used furniture oil as the final finish.) Chaly asked for more info.  Here are some thoughts -- possibly Steve will chime in and differ, or maybe offering his own thoughts.  I hope others will chime in as well -- I'm no expert. Every bit always when refinishing, work on one surface or area at a time. Remnants of previous finish will go more than visible when the forest is dry. Wipe downward frequently: yous don't want to soak the glued joints, nor practise you want the wood to swell.  (In fact, I'd call back hard most using this technique on a veneered piece at all.)  Also, yous don't desire to get out the dirty slurry in place to dry.  I also rinsed with a wet, clean(er) rag, and I used a estrus gun on low to mostly dry out the wood and the joints speedily. The steel wool will disintegrate with use.  Rinsing with more lather solution helps go rid of the particles. A strong  vacuum, a castor, and a very strong magnet volition help too. Do the details first -- working on little corners and crevices and bumps with the steel wool will inevitably also make clean some of the surrounding flat areas. Doing the details first, and the like shooting fish in a barrel flat areas second, means those surrounding areas don't get scrubbed twice. There may be concave corners that the steel wool won't get into. A small screwdriver with a very apartment abrupt bract can do some scraping in the corners. Be conscientious! I feel like the steel wool left a "fuzzy" surface in some places. When the oil on my Abode bonnet summit is very dry, I may lightly use some very fine sandpaper to try and get a proper flat finish, and then re-oil. __________________ My machines: http://projects.foxharp.net/sewing_machines/by-age
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SteveH-VSS Moderator
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Posted 1564609099	Reply with quote  #ii
Well written. To analyze:  This procedure REMOVES the Shellac. I would also add that there are stages of this that I utilize Murphy's with a soft cloth - SLOW and FAR less ambitious in the removal.  I have used this process to "freshen" the clearcoat with some success Murphy's with 0000 steel wool and GENTLE pressure - Works very well and is less ambitious with the wood Tater's with 0000 Steel wool and hard force per unit area - This works FAST.  The steel wool loads up quickly, I use about i/4 of a pad until it is loaded then toss it. The make clean up in betwixt pads is important The biggest danger is getting on a roll and over cleaning IMO, but if your plan is to refinish, this works VERY well. __________________ Antioch, California
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pgf Senior Member
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Posted 1564618353	Reply with quote  #iii
Thank you Steve -- skilful thoughts.  I'll bet if I'd been less aggressive, I wouldn't accept the fuzziness I mentioned. Patience is _not_ my middle proper name. paul __________________ My machines: http://projects.foxharp.net/sewing_machines/past-age
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Chaly Senior Member
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Posted 1564621768	Answer with quote  #4
Paul and Steve - many thanks for this information.  I appreciate the warnings to go slow. I'one thousand wondering if those 3M green pads would practise instead of the steel wool?  I've done refinishing with steel wool and information technology does exit it'due south trace behind- just thinking if at that place would be something equally effective. I'm thinking of using this method on my Singer 12 wood box case.  It's in pretty good shape really with a lovely patina but it could use a practiced sprucing up and if I could get it back to the wood with this method I think it would look lovely. Thank you both!
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pgf Senior Member
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Posted 1564662180	Answer with quote  #5
I'd be cautious using the 3M pads.  I seem to recall that they're pretty aggressive.  But I don't think I've ever tried one on wood. #0000 steel wool is forgiving to work with, and the trivial bits exercise make clean up -- you just have to remember to do it.  And unless you're refinishing a blonde cabinet of some sort, if, over time, at that place'southward a piddling fleck of brown rust in a crevice, it probably won't matter much. __________________ My machines: http://projects.foxharp.net/sewing_machines/by-age
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samiamaquilter Member
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Posted 1565187684	Respond with quote  #six
I detect that going over a piece that I take used steel wool on with a strong magnet that I cover with a thin piece of fabric, removed a lot of steel wool. I likewise use a make clean toothbrush in indented and carved pieces along with the magnet. The cloth over the magnet is for like shooting fish in a barrel removal of the steel wool on the magnet because once there, information technology is hard to remove. I would remember that the "fuzziness" was due to too much water on the surface and you lot raised the grain. Really fine sandpaper will remove it. I used to intentionally raise the grain on pine in order to get a smoother finish in the finish. It also seemed to make the stain I was using in its application, darker. I idea the water opened the pores of the forest and maybe information technology captivated the stain more simply that is just my thoughts. Null to back that upwardly. Sammie quilter in NC
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pgf Senior Member
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Posted 1619388023	Answer with quote  #7
I just skimmed this thread, and wanted to follow up on 1 point -- I think the fuzziness I mentioned was from being too aggressive with the steel wool.  In whatever case, fine sandpaper did fix it. __________________ My machines: http://projects.foxharp.cyberspace/sewing_machines/by-historic period
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Cecilia Senior Member
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Posted 1619522096	Reply with quote  #viii
Question about Murphy's: is that simply for if you want to take most of the gunky one-time shellac off simply non all? Also, helpful hint: never underestimate the usefulness of a toothbrush dipped in whatever y'all're using for stripping, for those corners and detailed areas. __________________ Saving the World... 1 Sewing Car at a Time!
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ttatummm Senior Member
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Posted 1619526680	Respond with quote  #ix
Quote: Originally Posted by Cecilia Question about Potato'southward: is that but for if you want to take nearly of the gunky quondam shellac off but not all? As Steven mentioned above how much of the shellac is removed depends on the pressure yous utilize.Ane of the things I like about this method you have a lot of control. If you apply a very light pressure level, yous can practise more of a deep clean and non remove all the finish. Heavier pressure, and you remove more or all the finish. Paul, I concord with Sammie, I recall the fuzziness you experienced was due to h2o. If I call back correctly yous dilute the Spud'due south somewhat. I've alway used it straight, no h2o, and to date have never had a trouble with fuzziness fifty-fifty when being aggressive in society to remove all the shellac. Likewise, I've used the method on veneer a couple times, and wouldn't hesitate to exercise information technology again. But once more the only water I used is a slightly damp rag to clean up the surface at the stop. Note: You will want a lot of rags or shop towels to wipe off the gunk as y'all work. You lot do desire to the surface clean while working (I believe Steve mention this in one of his post). This helps keeping you from spreading the gunk around and assessing how for you lot have taken the finish down. __________________ Tammy Make it stitch. -- J.L. Picard
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pgf Senior Member
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Posted 1619536675	Answer with quote  #x
Steve -- would it make sense to move this thread to HOWTOs? paul __________________ My machines: http://projects.foxharp.net/sewing_machines/by-age
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SteveH-VSS Moderator
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Posted 1619540882	Answer with quote  #11
Quote: Originally Posted by pgf Steve -- would information technology brand sense to move this thread to HOWTOs? paul Great thought.  Done! __________________ Antioch, California
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Source: https://www.victoriansweatshop.com/post/stripping-with-steel-wool-and-murphys-oil-soap-10203930

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